James
Craig (1744-95) famously won the competition to masterplan an Edinburgh
New Town when only 22 years old in 1766; Edinburgh New Town gradually
absorbed much of the professional classes from the increasingly ramshackle
Old Town. The New Town was mostly built of sandstone from Craigleath
Quarry. Princes Street (1805) is fairly uninteresting despite its
fame, but Charlotte Square and George Street (after George III) contain
many good works.
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The following entry is a bit of a detour for those on foot; if it's
too far then start at The Bonham or continue from the last tour at
The Caledonian:
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Dean
Gallery - refurbishment,
73 Belford Road
1999
Terry
Farrell & Co.
Refurbishment of former Orphanage by Hamilton, 1833. Farrell was also
responsible for the recent masterplan for both this building and the
adjacent Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art - SNGMA
Across the road to the West is the SNGMA: |

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Scotland's National Gallery of Modern Art - refurbishment
Terry Farrell & Co.
SNGMA - former John Watson's School by Burn, 1825, The masterplan
involves co-ordinated sculptures, landscaping. etc. |

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Earthworks
- 'Ueda' at the SNGMA
2002
Charles Jencks with Terry
Farrell |

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Former
Gymnasium 0 rear of SNGMA
1996
Lee Boyd
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The
Bonham, 35 Drumsheugh Gardens
1998
Ron Galloway
- Architect
Jonathan Speirs
& Assocs. - lighting & interior consultant
Three Grade A listed Terrace houses combined to create one of the
top 20 best new hotels in the world
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| Next
head East towards the centre, down Chester St., right into Queensferry
St. - at No.32 is one of three Pizza Expresses by Malcolm
Fraser Architects in the city (right) - then left to: |

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The
home of big finance with billions rumoured to pass through the Square's
dozen or so institutions every year. Alexander Graham Bell (1847-1922)
was born at No. 16, Lister at No.9 and Earl Haig at No.34.
The square was designed by Robert
Adam who died before its completion.
West Register House,
Charlotte
Square, 1814, Robert Reid
powerful building occupying former church of St. George with strong
vertical emphasis: a superb endpiece to George Street.
Georgian House (NTS), No. 7 Charlotte Square, 1792-, Robert
Adam - protected and reposed work. |


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80
George Street
Hugh
Martin Partnership
Principal Edinburgh
New Town street: George Street buildings
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Edinburgh's
most famous street beside the Royal Mile. Princes Street 'Galleries'
- original proposal in 2002 for half a mile of mall under Princes
St. - current proposal involves mall from Waverley to the Mound.
Edinburgh Galleries
Shortlist:
Allan Murray
Architects - winner, Dec 2002
Erick
van Egeraat
Gareth
Hoskins Architects
Page
and Park Architects
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Princes Street Vision:
Malcolm Fraser Architects in conjunction with the Cockburn Association
& the City of Edinburgh Council announce major reworking of Princes
St with malls through to Rose St
Just west of Castle St, on Princes St: New
Club by Alan Reiach, Architect & British
Home Stores (Bhs) by Robert Matthew, Johnson-Marshall & Partners;
nearby is Debenhams |
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Oloroso
rooftop restaurant, 37 Castle Street
Richard
Murphy Architects
Atop a listed Basil Spence building is Richard Murphy Architect's
conversion with base-build by Comprehensive Design Architects
Designed for the late restaureteur James Sankey and the ITV Chef of
the Year 2000 Tony Singh, Oloroso includes a rooftop terrace with
views to Fife and the Castle |

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| Centotre
restaurant, 103 George Street |

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| Assembly
Rooms, 54 George Street |

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Royal
Scottish Academy (RSA), Princes Street
1822-26; 1831-36
William Playfair
'Greek' style building, Weston
Link insertions by John
Miller & Partners, Phase I complete mid 2003; Phase II early
2005
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National
Gallery of Scotland, The Mound
1845-58; (1978)
William Playfair
A short detour to George St. will take you to ricks:
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Rick's
Bar, Hotel & Restaurant, 55a Frederick St
Malcolm Fraser Architects
subtle, sedate contemporary interior refurbishment
|

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| George
Hotel |

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| St
Andrews & St Georges Church |

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| The
Dome restaurant |

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| Le
Monde restaurant |

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Opal
Lounge, George St
2002
Malcolm Fraser Architects
Creative basement conversion as quality nightclub
Back on Princes St is the monument to Sir Walter Scott:
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Scott
Monument, Princes St
World-famous Victorian monument
Across the road is Marks
& Spencers, and Jenners, Victorian Department Store |

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Jenners,
Princes St
often described as the Harrods of the North, refurbished by Michael
Laird Architects
Princes Mall,
(former Waverley Market) Princes St, 1984, BDP;
subterranean shopping complex with black 'spikes' above ground evoking
the brooding form of St. Mary's Cathedral at the far end of Princes
St
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H&M
Edinburgh - Former C&A
Store + Jays Dept. Store, Princes St
2004
3D Architects
Burtons Department
Store |

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Balmoral Hotel,
North Bridge/Princes St
1902
Beattie
Opposite the Balmoral, across North Bridge, is GPO: |

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Former
General Post Office
- GPO
1861-66
Robert Matheson; additions by Oldrieve 1909; HM Partnership 2004
The shell has been retained and has been redeveloped
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General
Register House, Princes St, (opposite North Bridge/Balmoral
Hotel)
1774
Robert Adam
From here one can head North to the later phase of New Town -
down from Queen Street - or head up Calton Hill. |

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Waverley
Station
Edinburgh's main railway sits between the Old Town and the New Town.
Numerous proposals to redevelop, especially in the last decade
Head back to St. Andrew·s Square or visit |
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St James Centre
-
Hugh Martin Partnership
John Lewis Edinburgh,
Leith St
1987
Basil
Spence
'Food on 1': St James
Centre upper level conversion
Comprehensive Design Architects - CDA
Opposite the latter is possibly the site of the largest new development
in Edinburgh:
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Calton
Square + omni
edinburgh, Calton Hill
2002
Allan Murray Architects
Calton Square offices
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Leith
St Bridge
Broadway
Malyan Architects
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Square
contains Melville Monument (image right). Going clockwise, starting
in the east side, we have the following:-
Dundas Mansion
1774
Chambers
Royal Bank of Scotland branch
In the south-east corner is the red sandstone Prudential Assurance
at 14 South St.Andrew St by Waterhouse
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Scottish
Provident Building
1961
Rowand Anderson
Kininmonth & Paul
Located in the south-west corner at No.6, currently empty, well-balanced
facade |
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Former
Scottish Widows building
-
Basil Spence, architect
In the south-west corner (Sainsbury's at street level) is a rather
austere retail / commercial property:
St Andrew Square
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Former
Caledonian Insurance Co., George Street
1938-59
Thomson & Connell
Black marble, flanking statues, copper roof and Art Deco fenestration
and decoration
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No.10
George Street
1994
Reiach and Hall Architects
Quiet, mildly decorative and vertically-ordered insertion
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| In
the north-west on the corner with George Street is Standard
Life Assurance. |
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The
Walk incl. Harvey
Nichols, St Andrew Square
2002
Comprehensive Design
+ Lifschutz
Davidson Architects |

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Valvona
& Crolla restaurant off Multrees
Walk
Reiach and Hall Architects |
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| Bank
of Scotland HQ., east side of St Andrew's Square |

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Walk
North towards Queens Street:
Scottish
National Portrait Gallery, 1 Queen St
1895
Sir Robert Rowand Anderson
a 'must see' building |

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Further along
is No.9 Queen St:
Royal College of Physicians
1845
Hamilton
late Greek Revival
No. 8 Queen St
1771
Robert Adam
BBC Edinburgh
Offices, 5 Queen St
jmarchitects
Scotch
Malt Whisky Society, 28 & 29 Queen St
Simpson & Brown with Michael Laird Architects
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The
second phase of Edinburgh New Town - Reid; Elliot; Playfair; Graham;
Raeburn - was built between 1802 and around 1823, to the North and
off the plateau (one of the finest elements is Moray Place, right).
Edinburgh New Town Phase 2 |

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Dublin
Street Lane
1993 & 2000
Richard Murphy Architects
Private Housing
Nominee for Stirling
Prize 2000
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You
can continue on your own tour to William
Playfair's
Royal Crescent, 1823, Gillespie Graham's Moray Place, 1822, Playfair's
St Stephen's Church, 1828 at St. Vincent St. Great King Street (R.L.Stevenson
lived at 17 Heriot Row)
Down on the Water of Leith is a Pizza Express by Malcolm Fraser Architects
at 1 Deanhaugh St (right); close by some contemporary housing, see
below: |

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Dean Bank Lane
housing project
2005
Richard Murphy Architects
Private Housing
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17
Circus Lane
2000
Richard Murphy Architects
Private Houses
Two Circus Lane Houses for Mike Gordon
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Circus
Lane - 'Japanese house'
-
Richard Murphy Architects
Controversial mews house |

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Moray Place
1996 & 2000
Richard Murphy Architects
Private House
Refurbishment of a listed New Town house won one of Scotland's seven
RIBA
Awards in 2002, shortlisted for RIAS Scottish Building Award 2002
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Calton
Hill
The scattered monuments on this hill go a long way to earning Edinburgh
the sobriquet of Athens of the North:
Calton Hill
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Duguld
Stewart Monument
1831
Playfair |

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City
Observatory
1818
Playfair
Small domed building in centre of hill |

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National
Monument (to the Napoleonic Dead)
1829
Cockerell,
exec. Playfair
Designed as a folly (disputed), based on Acropolis
Scottish National
Monument |

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Nelson's
Monument
1816
Burn
Dropping ball on top pole signalled time to ships in the Firth
of Forth.
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St
Andrew's House
1939
Tait
Architecture Competition winner |

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Calton Old Burial
Ground, Waterloo Place
Obelisk to Political Martyrs
Memorial to David Hume
Governor's House
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Royal
High School
1829
Thomas Hamilton
Opposite the Royal High School, to the south-east:
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Burns
Monument, Regent Road
1830
Thomas Hamilton
About thirty yards East is the entry down a winding lane to Calton
Burial Ground:
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Calton
Burial Ground
A short walk to the East along Regent Terrace (or Regent Road) brings
you to Casa Murphy:
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17 Royal Terrace
Mews
1993
Richard Murphy Architects |
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